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No I don't actually, I have a block that supports the extension and I fret using that, it matches the CF rods perfectly and allows me to hammer the frets in.

I actually now finish the neck unfretted and fret after I polish...

-Paul-

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-Paul-

Patriot Guitars

L. Presnall
What I do is take a brace with the same curvature as I expect the top to have and I set that brace between the sides, so that it will show where the underside of the top will be under the bridge. I want the top of that L to point to the top of that brace. ( I set a straight edge on the curved brace, with the other end on the sides where they attach to the heel block and then use that angle to dictate the angle of the L surface ) Then when a top is glued on the hope is that it increases the thickness more or less uniformly and that the surface where the FBE is bolted down points to the upper surface where the bridge glues.

I hope that makes sense. If you could see it its fairly simple. The description sounds like something Charles Dickens might have written, just too tedious to read.
   

Paul
thanks for the picture. That looks very nice. It seems like there is a balancing act between advances in design and keeping a good traditional look. Some folks go to one extreme and make instruments that only remotely resemble what traditionalists have come to accept as proper guitar design and otheres are slaves to that tradition. I personally want to find a way to have the advantages of an adjustable removable neck and keep the entire package looking quite traditional. It looks like your design comes very close to accomplishing that.

John

Thanks John, I was really going for a couple things when the idea finally popped into my rusted little brain..

1. I wanted something that would support the tongue and get rid of the 'hump' at the 14th fret without having to tweak things.

2. I wanted to be able to do neck resets or even neck work without effecting the body (in fact I have one coming back soon for some neck shaping).

3. I wanted something that would give the neck some extra strength and rigidity.

4. It had to be simple, I don't have a CNC machine and didn't want to make super fancy jigs to install this.

5. Finally I was hoping to have someting that I could replace necks from one guitar to another.

It took me a couple of guitars to work out the kinks, sanding the top area down was one key, the other was getting the neck angle right. I'm building a jig this weekend to do the mortise and tenon work and to put in some neck angle (I do it on the table saw now and then set the neck angle).

Cheers

-Paul-

_________________
-Paul-

Patriot Guitars